Tooth Fairy Pillow Tutorial

My oldest has been on the verge of losing his first tooth for about a month. It’s pretty bittersweet to me, but a great excuse to make a little something special that will make the Tooth Fairy’s life a little bit easier. I scoured the internet for what I thought would be an easy-to-find tooth fairy pillow, but all I could find were tutorials for making pillows shaped like teeth and other less than appealing things for my taste and my family. Here’s what I came up with. It’s a fast pillow that comes together easily and finishes at around 7″ square. The perfect size to tuck next to stuffed animals on your child’s bed, and yet big enough for the Tooth Fairy to still get in and take care of her business!

Here’s what you’ll need:

(2) 8″ x 8″ main pillow fabric (I used the skull & crossbones as picked by my son 🙂

(1) 4-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ main pillow fabric

(1) 4-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ contrasting fabric (red here)

A Tooth for applique, or your child’s initial (I always use heat ‘n’ bond lite and follow the manufacturer directions when making fusible applique. It is always a good idea to topstitch around once it’s been fused to your fabric, which I forgot to do. Face palm.)

your favorite stuffing

Outside pocket:

This method will use french seams. If you are familiar with them, this should be super familiar and easy. If you are not familiar with making a french seam, never fret! They are very easy, but they feel a little counterintuitive. Follow the instructions and you will end up with your raw edges perfectly hidden inside your french seams.

Begin by pressing 1/4″ of the top of each 4-1/2″ square. Fold it over and press under again so the raw edge will be completely contained in the seam. Sew a scant 1/4″ seam.

Make these 2 pocket panels into a small sandwich, with the right side facing DOWN on both pieces. It feels counterintuitive, but I promise it will work out. Sew a 1/4″ seam around the sides and bottom, leaving the top open.

Take your pocket and trim 1/8″ from the seam you just made on both sides and the bottom. Flip this inside out and gently poke out the corners. The wrong side of both pieces should be facing down, as seen in the photo below.

Pin this pocket to one of your main pillow 8″ x 8″ squares roughly in the center.

Ever so carefully sew across the top of JUST the main pillow 4-1/2″ square, securing the top only to the 8″ x 8″ pillow.

THEN, and only then, sew around both sides and bottom of the outer pocket, using a 1/4″ seam. You should catch all of your raw edges and complete your french seams! TA DA!!

Next, pin your 2 main pillow 8″ x 8″ squares together, right sides together, making certain to leave a 3-4″ hole in the bottom of your pillow. Sew it together, flip it right side out, and gently poke out your corners. Stuff with your favorite stuffing and hand stitch the opening closed.


You’re all ready for the Tooth Fairy to visit now! My son is very excited to have his first visit tonight and I have a feeling the Tooth Fairy is going to appreciate this pillow a lot! 😉


Equilateral (60-degree) Triangle Baby Quilt

I haven’t had any friends have babies for a long time, but all of a sudden, I have a lot of baby quilts that I’d like to make for friends. I wanted to do something simple, without it being a simple patchwork quilt. I decided that an equilateral triangle quilt would give enough visual interest without it being either too difficult to piece or take too much time.

If you haven’t tried making an equilateral (60-degree) triangle quilt before, one of the best things I can recommend is starch or even just best press. If you take the time to take care of your fabric, it will be so much easier. Here’s my methodology for starching: Set out a plastic drop cloth, lay the fabric down, then spray it until it’s damp. I then leave it there until it dries. Once fabric has been starched, do not use steam, ESPECIALLY when you cut these triangles out. The bias edges really get wonky and weird with steam.

For further tips on how to piece 60-degree triangles, I recommend reading this post by the master herself, Jay Bird Quilts. I cannot recommend her tutorial highly enough.

This particular baby quilt is made using 5.5″ triangles, which are very easily cut out using a 60-degree ruler. Cut your fabric strips at 5.5″ x width of fabric (WOF). Then use your 60-degree ruler to cut triangles. Cut out 104 triangles to get enough for this quilt. You will then piece them into 8 rows of 13 triangles each. Once again, look through the post by Jay Bird Quilts and it’ll save you a lot of headache if you’d like your points to meet. Mine is not perfect, but I’m happy with it! 🙂

The solids I used for this quilt are all Moda Bella: Lead 9900 283, Graphite 9900 202, Smoke 9900 316, Silver 9900 183, White 9900 97. I don’t know what the aqua is….. but it’s pretty bright and great. Sorry.

This quilt finished at around 30″ x 40″. Just like a patchwork quilt, you can add more triangles to upsize it, or take away to downsize it. I really like keeping my baby quilts to a size that I can use just one yard of fabric for the backing and this did the trick!

What’s your go-to baby quilt? I’d love some more ideas!


#jensfillerblocks 6.5″ Bow Tie

I bet you all thought I was done making #jensfillerblocks. I did too!!! I couldn’t pass up posting this one as I’m in the middle of my 6.5″ bow tie quilt that I referenced in my Low Volumes series. It’s a very traditional block that has been around forever and is super easy to make.

Cutting for 1 block:

(2) 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ low volume

(2) 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ print

(2) 2″ x 2″ print

Draw a line down the center diagonally of each 2″ x 2″ print. Place the (2) 2″ x 2″ prints on top of one corner of each of the (2) 3-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ low volumes (LVs). Sew on the line. A note about directional prints: it is definitely possible to line up the prints so they go in the same direction, but it does require checking before you sew them to the LV’s.

Trim off the excess, and press. Lay out the block to make sure it is all facing the right direction and your bow tie corner pieces you just made end up in the right spot.

Sew together into a simple 4-patch and you are done!